View of the Eiffel Tower and the Sacré Coeur basilica, with the RER Bridge and the Ile aux Cygnes (Swan Island) in the foreground. In spite of the compression brought by the telephoto lens, most Parisian landmarks are hardly ever further away than four miles from each other, usually much closer. A stroll from the Sacre Coeur to the Eiffel Tower, at a normal pace, would take less than two hours including the waits at the several pedestrian crossings.

Most of the time, Frank Sinatra and I, we agree. As old Blue Eyes would sing, I love Paris, too. I love Paris in the springtime, in the fall, in the summer and in the winter. Frank and I, and I hope many of you readers, we love Paris every moment of the year. But in Springtime, Paris is special.

Springtime in Paris comes all of a sudden. Paris lies at the curious intersection of two weather systems: the Atlantic weather, and the continental climate. This means that the weather can change several times a day, but changes in the weather may last several days as well.

The Church of Saint Sulpice, whose fame increased after being amply featured in Dan Brown’s “Da Vinci Code.” The church is well aware of this notoriety and, if presumably happy for the increased visits and donations, nevertheless opted for a full-on… — The Church of Saint Sulpice, whose fame increased after being amply featured in Dan Brown’s “Da Vinci Code.” The church is well aware of this notoriety and, if presumably happy for the increased visits and donations, nevertheless opted for a full-on demystification of the novel contents, plastering the inside of the building with notes matching Dan Brown’s inaccuracies with historical facts.

This is to say that although the French capital is characterized by frequent changes of weather, it also experiences proper summers and proper winters. Winters can be harsh, they can be long and cold, and they usually last from early November to well into the month of March.

Snow falling on the Louvre, Rue de Rivoli. Paris is subject to a couple of snowfalls each winter. Usually they are unexpected, and happen either in November (“what, so early?!”) or in late February/early March (“what? It’s almost Springtime!”). Notw… — Snow falling on the Louvre, Rue de Rivoli. Paris is subject to a couple of snowfalls each winter. Usually they are unexpected, and happen either in November (“what, so early?!”) or in late February/early March (“what? It’s almost Springtime!”). Notwithstanding the great beauty of snow in Paris, a couple inches of snow are all it takes to gridlock the city.

And then, one day, you realize that your coat is way too warm. You look up, and the boughs that were frozen in the morning until not so long ago are turning pastel pink and green.

Trees blossoming in front of the church of Saint-Vincent-de-Paul. Many Parisian churches are surrounded by small, luscious gardens that add to their beauty. This may sharply contrast with the urban setting of the church, as in the case of Saint-Vinc… — Trees blossoming in front of the church of Saint-Vincent-de-Paul. Many Parisian churches are surrounded by small, luscious gardens that add to their beauty. This may sharply contrast with the urban setting of the church, as in the case of Saint-Vincent-de-Paul, situated a few blocks from the North Station (Gateway to London and Bruxelles).

The Parisian Spring is full of wonders: two of them, to me, are the most wonderful of them all. The first is that you start wanting to spend more and more time outdoors, the second is that you feel finally comfortable doing this in the evening, too.

Don’t get me wrong: you could spend a year in Paris without ever seeing the sky, and not get bored once. Museums for all tastes and interests, stores for each and every fashion (and budget), restaurants, covered streets with the charm of what is lost in time, venues hosting the biggest stars and the most amazingly intimate jazz concerts, opera houses and theatres that will make you cry and laugh depending on whether you are seeking laughter or tears. Yet, you’ve heard this thousands of times: Paris is an open-air museum. Whenever I meet someone who has never been to Paris and asks me for advice on their first visit, I tell them: “Just be outdoors. Wander. Stroll. Don’t even bother looking at your map, even less at your phone, just let your eyes inform your feet, and get around.” In the winter, it may get very cold, and wet. But in March, this starts to change. Parisians swarm to the gardens once again. Times are moving on: albeit many parks now forbid typically French activities such as public day-drinking and smoking while laying in the grass, the baguette-based picnic is a tradition still honored by Parisians of any age and social class.

Bronze sculptures by Maillol, early 20th century, in the Louvre gardens (Jardin des Tuilleries). In the background, the ferris wheel of Concorde square and the glass-and-iron dome of the Grand Palais. — *Bronze sculptures by Maillol, early 20th century, in the Louvre gardens (Jardin des Tuilleries). In the background, the ferris wheel of Concorde square and the glass-and-iron dome of the Grand Palais*.

You can hardly walk half a mile without stumbling on a gorgeous garden. After all, Paris is where the contemporary urban gardens were born, thanks to architects and landscapers such as Le Nôtre. Some gardens are majestic and immense, such as the Tuileries adjacent to the Louvre. Others are enclosed, almost secret gardens, such as Place des Vosges (where Victor Hugo did live and which, albeit labelled a square, is actually a squared garden surrounded by building with porches).

Place des Vosges and its peaceful garden. The square, situated at the eastern boundary of the Marais, the Jewish neighborhood, shelters under its ancient porches a number of famous restaurants and cafés, art galleries, jewelry stores, small fashion … — Place des Vosges and its peaceful garden. The square, situated at the eastern boundary of the Marais, the Jewish neighborhood, shelters under its ancient porches a number of famous restaurants and cafés, art galleries, jewelry stores, small fashion designers and, last but not least, Victor Hugo’s home.

You do not have to walk from one park to the another. Many Parisians are hard-core and act as if the fury of the elements does not bother them, but as the weather gets more mellow, you will see more and more cyclists populating the excellent (and safe) network of bike lanes spreading all over Paris. Yes, some old-fashioned residents of the 16th District will still look down on bicycles as a bobo nuisance, but cycling is indeed the most efficacious way of moving around the city: maybe not the best way if you are on a crazy shopping spree, but, aside from your feet, a bicycle is the only means of transportation that will save you from the frequently gridlocked traffic. As a photographer, bicycles have the ultimate advantage: they go as fast as car (in Paris), but they let you pull over on a whim and appreciate Paris’ iconic landmarks from the best point of views. When driving a car, or stuck at the end of the 72 bus, you can’t jump down and shoot the Orsay Museum in the late afternoon.

The Musée d’Orsay, home to the world’s most complete collection of Impressionist painting. Built between 1898 and 1900, the Beaux-Art building served its original purpose as a train station until 1939. It was subsequently used for suburban transport… — The Musée d’Orsay, home to the world’s most complete collection of Impressionist painting. Built between 1898 and 1900, the Beaux-Art building served its original purpose as a train station until 1939. It was subsequently used for suburban transport and as a mail distribution center, until its inauguration as a Museum in 1986 – after the imposing renovation authored by the Italian architect Gae Aulenti.

When driving a car, you cannot stop on a bridge and shoot a photograph of the Eiffel Tower from the Seine, framing in the shot the (not so) small reproduction of the Statue of Liberty, designed, sculpted and constructed by two Frenchmen: Fréderic Auguste Bartholdi and Gustave Eiffel. When cycling, you can.

View of the Eiffel Tower from the Mirabeau Bridge. In the foreground, a small scale model of the Statue of Liberty. Donated to the city by its American community in 1889, the statue is considered not to be a simple replica but a working model constr… — View of the Eiffel Tower from the Mirabeau Bridge. In the foreground, a small scale model of the Statue of Liberty. Donated to the city by its American community in 1889, the statue is considered not to be a simple replica but a working model constructed in preparation of the colossal statue located in New York.

The only issue with Paris and bicycles seems to be posed by tourists. To be honest, I cycled all over Paris, from early Spring to late Fall, and I never had an issue with traffic. I did have some issues in the summer when the bike lanes get crowded by groups of tourists on their rental bikes, unwilling to learn the laws (and the politeness) of Parisian circulation, and poorly informed by the belief that, since they are on holidays, nothing bad can happen to them. But you, dear reader, would not be one of them.

Ah, les touristes! The mixed blessing of every Parisian. Complaining is one of France’s national pastimes: Parisians complain when tourists are there, and when tourists are not there.

.A tourist resting by the carousel in front of City Hall (Hôtel de Ville). In the background, the BHV (Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville), one of the most famous department stores of Paris, together with the Bon Marché and the Galleries Lafayette. Another i… — .A tourist resting by the carousel in front of City Hall (Hôtel de Ville). In the background, the BHV (Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville), one of the most famous department stores of Paris, together with the Bon Marché and the Galleries Lafayette. Another iconic store, the Samaritaine, closed its doors in 2005 to undergo a gargantuan renovation process to meet contemporary safety requirements, and is scheduled to reopen later in 2021.

If there’s anything more beautiful than Paris in the Springtime, it’s Paris during the first two weeks of August, when all the locals are on holidays, and the streets are empty save for a few flocks of American and Japanese tourists. Summer nights, when the city is empty, are nothing less than a postcard from an enchanted land.

A view of Paris at dusk, shot from a rooftop on Bastille Square. From left to right, the double bell-towers of St-Sulpice, the golden dome of the Invalides (Napoleon’s grave), the Eiffel Tower showing its hourly sparkle, the high rise buildings of t… — A view of Paris at dusk, shot from a rooftop on Bastille Square. From left to right, the double bell-towers of St-Sulpice, the golden dome of the Invalides (Napoleon’s grave), the Eiffel Tower showing its hourly sparkle, the high rise buildings of the Défense (the business district), Notre Dame cathedral and, just right of it, the dark spire of the Sainte Chapelle, jewel of gothic architecture.

But summer nights do not happen all of a sudden: Summer nights are born in the Spring, especially once Daylight Saving Time kicks in, and the Sun starts setting way after 8 pm. That is when Parisians start owning the night.

Rue St. Dominique, in the 7th District, stretches from Boulevard St. Germain to the very feet of the Eiffel Tower. The busy street is an iconic examples of a left bank, upper middle class neighborhood, characterized by nineteenth century residential… — Rue St. Dominique, in the 7th District, stretches from Boulevard St. Germain to the very feet of the Eiffel Tower. The busy street is an iconic examples of a left bank, upper middle class neighborhood, characterized by nineteenth century residential buildings and countless and countless grocery stores, bakeries, small shops, and of course restaurants and cafés, mostly serving old-fashioned French fare.

As Spring moves on, more Parisians feel comfortable eating outdoor at dinner time. The “Oh non! it’s too cold!” party loses members with each passing day. Once dinner is done, the brisk walk to your Metro station becomes a casual stroll. You may also decide to walk to the next station or even cross the Seine and go home by a different route allowing for more steps.

A southern view of the Ile de la Cité. The center of Paris includes two small isles, connected by bridges to both banks of the Seine river (and to each other). The Ile de la Cité is home to Notre Dame cathedral and to the Sainte Chapelle. Before it … — A southern view of the Ile de la Cité. The center of Paris includes two small isles, connected by bridges to both banks of the Seine river (and to each other). The Ile de la Cité is home to Notre Dame cathedral and to the Sainte Chapelle. Before it was moved to the Louvre, the Royal Palace was also on the isle. As a matter of fact, the isle coincides with the original settlement of what would become Paris. The coat of arms of the city of Paris represents a boat, and its latin motto “fluctuat nec mergitur” translates as “she floats and won’t be sunk”: they both refer to the elongated, vessel-like shape of the Ile de la Cité.

And if you cycled to the center, and you are riding your bike home, you can also stop and enjoy some more of those views that make Paris so unique. You are not in a hurry; you are not cold anymore. You relax, you take it easy, you close your eyes, you smell the river and flowers, you listen to the muffled sound of traffic, to the laughter of a group of youths who are doing the same thing as you: just being there, enjoying the first nights of Spring in one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

***Night view of the Eiffel Tower from the Mirabeau bridge. On the right, the Beaugrenelle district, one of the rare clusters of modern architecture and high rises in the center of Paris.***

I lived in Paris for three years, before moving to California in 2018. This is my third year in the South Bay. And yet, each time Spring comes, my heart goes back to Paris. I think of what my fellow Parisians are doing there. And once this feeling kicks in, I can’t help it: I go online, and start planning my next trip over there. Maybe right now it is not so easy, but deep inside we know it well: to say it with Humphrey Bogart, we'll always have Paris.

The Seine river at dusk, as seen from the neighboring suburb of Issy-Les-Moulineaux (where we used to live). The Eiffel Tower, in the background, is three miles away and could be reached in less than a hour-long stroll on the bank of the river. The … — The Seine river at dusk, as seen from the neighboring suburb of Issy-Les-Moulineaux (where we used to live). The Eiffel Tower, in the background, is three miles away and could be reached in less than a hour-long stroll on the bank of the river. The Eiffel Tower is a towering landmark that is visible from most of Paris.

Tom Wayne Bertolotti was born in Pavia, northern Italy, a few months before the Simpsons first appeared on TV. He earned his PhD in Philosophy in 2013 and pursued an academic career in Italy, France, and in the US, studying ethics of technology, religion, gossip, and LEGO – the “quintessential Platonic toy”. In 2018 he moved permanently to the South Bay and soon after he embraced his passion as his new career, becoming a full-time photographer and storyteller. He finds joy in shooting portraits, Southern Californian vistas, and what he calls “Visions of the American West”.

He hangs out most of the time in Palos Verdes and Redondo Beach, and can be easily spotted by his signature yellow sneakers or cowboy boots, always matched with very colorful outfits.

Website: www.tombertolotti.com

Blog: blog.tombertolotti.com

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