Malmsey Dearest: Westbrook Wine Farm Revives a Fortified Classic with California Soul By Wine Aficionado and Founder of California Corks John Krause
Welcome to Westbrook Wine Farm, a place where passion for winemaking runs as deep as the roots of its mountain-grown vines. Unlike many California wineries, this is an intimate, by-appointment-only destination that focuses on the journey of wine from the vineyard to your glass. Here, winemaker Ray Krause crafts exceptional wines, including the unforgettable "Malmsey Dearest," a historic style of dessert wine made from Malvasia Bianca grapes. Get ready to explore a winery that offers a truly personal and remarkable experience.
A Mountain Winery with a Historic Vision
High in the Sierra foothills of eastern Madera County, nestled in oak forests near Yosemite, Westbrook Wine Farm is quietly reviving a centuries-old tradition. While best known for bold reds, the winery has added something truly special to its portfolio — a Madeira-style fortified wine with a name as evocative as its flavor: Malmsey Dearest.
Crafted from Malvasia Bianca grapes and aged in barrels for over a decade, Malmsey Dearest is more than just a tribute to history. It's a testament to time, temperature, and the artistry of winemaking — echoing a tradition that began centuries ago on the volcanic slopes of a Portuguese island far from California’s rolling hills.
But to understand Malmsey Dearest, we must first understand Malmsey itself — one of the world’s oldest and most storied wine styles.
What makes Westbrook Wine Farm so unique among the vast landscape of California wine country? It’s the personal touch. This isn't an entertainment venue masquerading as a winery; it's the home of grower-winemakers who personally greet and pour for every guest. It's a place for genuine, civilized conversation about fine wine.
Nestled in the foothills of Madera County, this winery is a short trip from the southern entrance to Yosemite National Park, making it a perfect addition to any mountain getaway. The following sections will guide you on how to visit and what makes this location so special.
The tasting room is not open to the general public for walk-ins. To ensure a safe, personal, and pleasurable visit, the winery operates on a by-appointment-only basis. When you visit, you are treated as a guest in their home, so planning is essential.
Ready to schedule your visit? Here’s what you need to know:
Reservations are required: Call 559-868-3499 or email mailto:westbrookwine@netptc.net to secure a confirmed reservation.
Allow ample time: Plan for at least two hours to fully enjoy the unhurried, personal tasting experience.
Visitor guidelines: The winery is for guests 21 and over, and it's a non-smoking property. No buses, minors, or guest dogs are permitted.
The experience here is designed for true wine lovers. Unlike crowded tasting rooms, Westbrook offers a quiet, educational environment where you can engage directly with the winemaker. Guests consistently describe their visit as a "wonderful experience," praising the personal attention and deep knowledge shared during their tasting.
When you explore the local wine trail, you'll discover that Westbrook offers something truly unique:
Deep Dives: Tastings are educational, focusing on the journey of the wine from the vineyard to your glass.
Personal Connection: You'll have a casual conversation with the winemaker, not a scripted speech from a tasting room associate.
The History Behind Westbrook Wine Farm
The story of Westbrook Wine Farm is rooted in decades of passion and dedication. With over 60 years of winemaking experience, founder Ray Krause brings a level of expertise that is rare and deeply respected. His journey is one of continuous learning and a relentless pursuit of getting it "just right."
This history is not just about time served; it's about a vision. The founding story is one of inspiration, hard work, and a commitment to authentic, handcrafted wines. Let’s look closer at the people, traditions, and evolution that have shaped this remarkable winery.
Founding Story: Visionaries and Origins
The heart and soul of Westbrook Wine Farm are its proprietors, Ray and Tammy Krause. Ray is a true original, a man with more stories than a library and the wit to match. His winemaking journey began at age 18, leading him to a scholarship in enology from Fresno State way back in 1963. With his sixty-first year in the business approaching, he jokes, "I’m this close to getting it right." Twenty-nine years as a founding judge at the prestigious Orange County Fair Wine Competition helped with keeping his competitive edge.
This journey is marked by a wonderful sense of humor and humility. Ray once recounted pulling out his old textbook from college 30 years after college and exclaiming, "Who knew? Look at all this good information!" This anecdote perfectly captures his spirit of lifelong learning and his hands-on approach to the craft.
Together, Ray and Tammy have built a winery that reflects their personalities: authentic, welcoming, and deeply serious about wine without taking themselves too seriously. Their vision was to create not just a winery, but an experience where guests could share in their passion for good wine and good company.
Influences of European Wine Traditions
The winemaking philosophy at Westbrook is deeply influenced by European wine traditions. This is most evident in their approach to red blends and their revival of historic fortified wines. Rather than chasing trends, the focus is on creating complex, age-worthy wines that honor classic methods.
You can see this in their flagship red wines, which are crafted in the Meritage style. Instead of blending separate varietal wines after fermentation, they co-ferment the grapes together, a traditional Claret style that creates a unique flavor bond and complexity. The inspiration for "Malmsey Dearest" comes directly from the legendary Madeira wines of Portugal.
Key traditional influences include:
Bordeaux Blends: The estate vineyards are planted with field blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, and all other of the eight red varieties originally permitted in Bordeaux.
Co-fermentation: Harvesting and fermenting multiple grape varieties together is a classic technique used to achieve harmony and complexity.
Evolution of Winemaking at Westbrook Over the Years
The winemaking journey at Westbrook Wine Farm is a story of continuous refinement. With decades of hands-on experience, Ray Krause has honed his craft with a blend of scientific knowledge and artistic intuition. As one editor noted, Ray "has been in the wine biz longer than Keith Richards has been defying medical science." This longevity has allowed for a deep understanding of his land and his grapes.
Over the years, the winery has stayed true to its core principles of minimalist intervention and sustainable farming. The evolution has not been about changing styles to meet market demands but about perfecting the expression of their unique terroir. From their first vintage to their latest releases, there is a consistent thread of quality and conscience.
This long history means the winery can offer not just current releases but also Library Selections that showcase how the wines have matured. It's a testament to a process that has been patiently developed over an entire career, resulting in wines that are truly built to last.
Malvasia Bianca – The Soul of “Malmsey Dearest”
Yes, the soul of the celebrated "Malmsey Dearest" is the Malvasia Bianca grape. This variety is the heart of their unique dessert wine, which is crafted in a fortified style reminiscent of historic Madeira. This isn't your typical sweet wine; it is a complex and memorable creation.
The Sweet, Oxidized Elegance of Malmsey: A Journey Through Time
Ancient Roots: Malvasia and Mediterranean Trade
The name “Malmsey” is the Anglicized version of Malvasia, a grape believed to originate near Monemvasia, a fortified port town in Greece. As the vines spread across the Mediterranean — through Italy, Spain, and eventually Portugal — the sweet wines they produced became favorites of European courts and merchants alike.
The grape made its way to the island of Madeira in the 15th century, where it found a new identity. Thanks to the island’s volcanic soils, warm maritime climate, and a happy accident involving heat and motion during sea transport, Madeira wines were born — wines that could survive, even improve, overlong ocean voyages.
Among them, the richest and sweetest was Malmsey — made from the Malvasia grape and aged oxidatively to develop deep notes of toffee, roasted nuts, dried fruits, and caramelized citrus.
Royalty, Intrigue, and Global Fame
By the 16th and 17th centuries, Malmsey was flowing into the goblets of royalty, aristocrats, and statesmen across Europe. Its fame reached as far as England and its colonies — where it earned a curious footnote in history: George, Duke of Clarence, brother to King Edward IV, was (allegedly) executed by being drowned in a butt of Malmsey wine in 1478. The story was later immortalized by Shakespeare in Richard III.
Across the Atlantic, Malmsey and other Madeira wines became the favorite drink of early America. Founding Fathers toasted with it. Bottles were present at the signing of the Declaration of Independence.
But in the 19th century, the style began to fade. War, vine disease (notably phylloxera), and changing tastes pushed Malmsey into the shadows — until recent decades, when it began to reemerge among collectors, sommeliers, and winemakers.
California’s Homage: Westbrook’s “Malmsey Dearest”
It’s against this backdrop that Westbrook Wine Farm, led by vintner Ray Krause, introduces Malmsey Dearest — a New World interpretation of an Old-World icon.
This wine is made from Malvasia Bianca, a varietal that thrives in California's sun-soaked vineyards. But what makes it unique is its commitment to time. The wine is aged for ten long years in seasoned oak barrels, exposed to Madera County’s warm summers — sometimes nearing 100°F — which mimics the historic “Cantero” aging process used in Madeira.
The result is a deeply complex, sweet, and oxidative wine, full of character and nuance. It has been described as having notes of burnt sugar, toasted almond, dried apricot, and baking spice, with a lasting finish and elegant acidity.
The name — Malmsey Dearest — is a playful twist on a letter closing, but also a heartfelt nod to the centuries-old affection wine lovers have held for this style.
It’s a wine that feels both familiar and unexpected: a glass of golden history with a distinctly Californian signature.
Awards and Accolades
Malmsey Dearest has not gone unnoticed. It received a 97 points, Double Gold and Best of Class at the Sunset International Wine Competition — an impressive accolade for a wine style few California producers even attempt.
It’s a rare example of a non-Portuguese, Madeira-style wine that’s crafted with serious intent and patience. For those curious about oxidative wines, sweet fortifies, or simply something off the beaten path, Malmsey Dearest offers a unique and rewarding experience.
The process involves letting the grapes achieve optimal ripeness, sometimes as a late harvest, to concentrate their flavors. This results in a wine with depth, character, and a story to tell. It’s a perfect example of how Westbrook uses a specific grape to revive a classic style with a distinct California identity.
Here’s what makes this grape perfect for "Malmsey Dearest":
Aromatic Profile: Malvasia Bianca is known for its floral and fruit-forward aromatics.
Historic Connection: Malmsey is the traditional English name for wines made from Malvasia grapes in Madeira.
Dessert Wine Potential: Its natural characteristics make it ideal for producing rich, balanced dessert wines.
Estate-Grown Cabernet Sauvignon and Other Highlights
Westbrook Wine Farm's mountain vineyards are home to an impressive field blend of red Bordeaux varietals. Their flagship wine, Fait Accompli, is a testament to this approach, featuring a proprietary blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with significant portions of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Carménère, and Petit Verdot.
What sets these wines apart is the traditional Claret style of co-fermentation. Instead of making separate varietal wines and blending them later, the grapes are harvested and fermented together. This method creates a "flavor bond" and a level of complexity that is difficult to achieve through simple blending. The result is a civilized yet full-flavored, deeply colored, and highly extracted wine.
The estate vineyards are planted with:
A field blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Gros Verdot, Saint Macaire, and Carménère.
The goal is to craft a complete wine in the vineyard itself, rather than assembling it in the cellar.
Vineyard Practices That Define Westbrook’s Character
The philosophy at Westbrook Wine Farm can be summed up in two principles: sustainable farming and minimalist winemaking. They believe that great wine is crafted in the vineyard, not manufactured in the winery. This means every decision is made to preserve the natural character of their estate-grown fruit.
Sustainable practices ensure the long-term health of the land and the vines, allowing them to produce fruit of incredible intensity and quality year after year. This hands-off-in-the-cellar approach means that fermentation is seen simply as a way of preserving the grapes they so carefully grow. You won't find excessive manipulation here; the goal is to let the wine be itself.
This commitment is why you can taste the terroir in every bottle. By practicing "high touch" in the vineyard and being minimalist in the winery, they produce authentic, handcrafted wines of quality and conscience. It’s a method that honors the fruit and the land from which it comes.
Reviving a Fortified Classic – The Story of “Malmsey Dearest”
"Malmsey Dearest" is more than just a dessert wine; it is a journey into history. This unique fortified wine is Westbrook Wine Farm's tribute to the legendary Madeira wine, specifically the "Malmsey" style. It revives a classic European tradition with a distinctly Californian spirit.
This wine captures the essence of a bygone era while being firmly rooted in the terroir of the Sierra foothills. Let’s explore the historical legends that inspired this creation and how it is crafted with a modern, local touch.
Inspiration from Madeira Wines and Historical Legends
The inspiration for "Malmsey Dearest" comes directly from the historic and incredibly resilient Madeira wines. Produced on the Portuguese island of Madeira, these fortified wines are famous for their unique aging process, which involves heating the wine. This process gives them remarkable longevity and complex, nutty, and caramelized flavors.
Westbrook Wine Farm channels this tradition to create a wine that honors the style's rich past. The name itself, "Malmsey," is a historical term for the sweetest style of Madeira, traditionally made from Malvasia grapes. This connects the wine to centuries of European winemaking and the many historical legends surrounding it.
The creation of "Malmsey Dearest" is guided by:
Historical respect: A nod to the traditions and unique character of Madeira wines.
Innovative spirit: Applying these old-world concepts to grapes grown in California to create something new yet familiar.
George, Duke of Clarence – Legendary Connections
One of the most famous legendary connections to Malmsey wine involves a dramatic tale from English history. The story goes that George, Duke of Clarence, the brother of King Edward IV, was convicted of treason in 1478. When given the choice of his execution method, he allegedly chose to be drowned in a butt (a large cask) of Malmsey wine.
While historians debate the truth of this dramatic exit, the legend has been famously immortalized by Shakespeare and has forever linked the Duke of Clarence with this particular wine. It’s a dark but fascinating piece of lore that speaks to the wine's desirability and status in the 15th century.
This story adds a layer of historical intrigue to "Malmsey Dearest." The name is a clever play on this legend, inviting you to enjoy a wine with a past as rich and complex as its flavor. It’s a conversation starter in a bottle, connecting your glass to a nearly unbelievable moment in royal history.
Crafting “Malmsey Dearest” with California Soul
While "Malmsey Dearest" is inspired by old-world traditions, it is crafted with a distinctive California soul. Westbrook Wine Farm doesn't simply replicate Madeira; it reinterprets it using the unique character of grapes grown in sun-drenched Madera County. This is where innovation meets history.
The process involves careful blending and a unique aging process designed to develop the complex flavors reminiscent of classic fortified wines. However, the finished product is entirely its own, reflecting the sunny, bold spirit of its origin. It’s a tribute, not a copy, showcasing what’s possible when California terroir meets European heritage.
This approach is central to the history of Westbrook Wine Farm. The winery consistently bridges the gap between classic techniques and a pioneering spirit. Crafting "Malmsey Dearest" is a perfect example of how they honor the past while creating something entirely new and exciting for today's wine drinkers.
Wine Tasting Experiences at Westbrook Wine Farm
The wine tasting experiences at Westbrook Wine Farm are unlike any other. Forget "speed tasting" or crowded bars; this is an intimate affair. All tastings are conducted by appointment only, ensuring you receive personal and respectful attention from the winemakers themselves.
The focus is on relaxed, casual conversation and a deep appreciation for the wine's journey. You are encouraged to ask questions and become engaged in a civilized, educational environment. Read on to learn about the specific tasting flights, guided tours, and special experiences available to visitors.
Wine Flights Featuring Malmsey Dearest and More
During your visit, you'll have the opportunity to sample a curated selection of wines through thoughtfully designed wine flights. These tastings showcase the breadth and quality of the winery's portfolio, from their flagship red blends to their unique single-vineyard offerings and, of course, the iconic "Malmsey Dearest."
Each wine is poured and discussed by the winemaker, giving you unparalleled insight into its creation. You might taste a Barbera that amazes you with its balance or a Petite Sirah that changes your mind about the varietal. The experience is about discovering new favorites and expanding your palate.
The types of wine you might encounter cover a range of styles, each with its own story and release date.
Wine Type ~ Description
Fait Accompli ~ The flagship estate-grown Bordeaux-style blend, co-fermented for complexity.
Museum Preserve ~ Co-fermented field blend of Gross Verdot, Saint Macaire, and nine heritage clones of Cabernet Sauvignon
Malmsey Dearest ~ A unique dessert wine made from Malvasia Bianca in the historic fortified style.
Single Vineyard ~ Wines like Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon from specific, high-quality vineyards.
Library Selections ~ Older vintages are released after years of aging, showcasing their development.
Guided Tours with Insightful Winemaker Stories
A visit to Westbrook Wine Farm is much more than a simple tasting; it's a guided tour led by the winemaker, Ray Krause. Ray personally welcomes guests and often takes them on a tour of the property and facilities, sharing the personal history and story behind every bottle. These insightful tours are filled with humor, wit, and deep knowledge.
One visitor described Ray as having the "charisma of a televangelist selling salvation in a bottle," a testament to his engaging and passionate storytelling. You’ll hear winemaker stories that are sometimes humorous, sometimes irreverent, but always stimulating. It’s a rare opportunity to connect directly with the person who crafted the wine in your glass.
The tours are designed to be:
Personal: Ray takes the time to get to know you and your wine preferences through casual conversation.
Educational: You'll learn about the entire process, from the sustainable practices in the vineyard to the minimalist techniques in the winery.
Special Tastings for Visitors on the Madera Wine Trail
For those exploring the Madera Wine Trail, a stop at Westbrook Wine Farm offers a distinct and memorable counterpoint to more conventional winery visits. The tasting room here is a hub for serious wine novices and experts alike, providing an environment where everyone can share their passion for good wine.
The winery is particularly pleased to welcome young adults who are transitioning from a party-focused scene to a deeper appreciation of wine. The experience is about cultivating a lasting relationship with wine through a tactile, "old school" approach that values personal connection over high-tech convenience.
Here, you'll find young adults, seasoned citizens, and everyone in between leisurely sharing their views. It's a place where you can expect to enjoy a relaxed and conversational environment, making it a must-visit destination for anyone serious about discovering the best of the Madera Wine Trail.
Availability, Events, and Private Gatherings
Beyond tastings, Westbrook Wine Farm offers opportunities to purchase their acclaimed wines directly and host intimate private group tastings for up to twelve adults. The winery's availability is exclusive, reflecting its commitment to personal, high-quality experiences rather than large-scale commercial operations.
The following sections detail how you can bring their wines home and celebrate your special occasions at this unique Sierra foothills destination.
How to Purchase Westbrook Wines, Including Malmsey Dearest
The best way to purchase Westbrook wines is to do so in person after your tasting. This allows you to make informed choices based on the wonderful wine experience you just had. Many first-time visitors leave with a carload of wine after discovering how exceptional and affordable the offerings are.
Because the winery focuses on personal connections, the primary method for acquiring their wines is by visiting. While the compiled information doesn't specify an option to order online, reaching out directly is always the best first step.
To secure your favorite bottles:
Plan your purchase: Discuss your preferences and wine availability during your visit with the winemaker or with a phone call or email inquiry.
Inquire directly: Call or email the winery to ask about current availability and purchasing options, especially if you are unable to visit in person.
Hosting Private Events and Celebrations at the Winery
Yes, Westbrook Wine Farm provides a beautiful and intimate setting for a private and semi-private wine centric experience. The rustic authenticity of the earth-bermed, barn-style winery creates a warm and welcoming atmosphere for any special occasion. It's an ideal venue for those looking for something more personal and memorable than a typical event space may offer.
A centerpiece of the winery is its magnificent native stone fireplace, which adds a touch of rustic elegance and coziness. One guest was so moved by the story of how the fireplace was built that she left a heart-shaped rock there, feeling she needed to leave "a piece of her heart in that special place."
Consider Westbrook for:
Intimate gatherings: Perfect for small groups (1-12) who appreciate fine wine, personal attention, and a unique setting.
Memorable celebrations: The personal attention and natural surroundings ensure your event will be unforgettable. Contact the winery directly to discuss hosting your private events.
Guest Testimonials and Noteworthy Mentions
Guest testimonials for Westbrook Wine Farm consistently rave about the unique combination of good wine, good people, and good conversation. One guest, Brooke, shared that her mother-in-law (from England) called it "truly the best wine tasting she had ever experienced" because winemaker Ray Krause stayed to speak with them and answer questions.
Another couple wrote, "There are Wineries that offer tastings and then there are real-deal Wineries that offer you an experience that you can never forget. Westbrook Wine Farm is the real deal." They left with an expanded "wine mind" and a mission to return soon. This sentiment is echoed by many who appreciate civilized conversation and personal attention.
What guests love most:
The personal touch: Visitors cherish the time spent directly with the winemaker, who is described as an "amazing host & Winemaker." (see YELP reviews)
The unforgettable experience: Many feel it's the most enjoyable visit to a winery they have ever had.
Awards and Industry Praise Highlighting Malvasia Bianca and Madeira Styles
The industry praise for Westbrook Wine Farm is just as impressive as its guest reviews. The winery has received top honors from some of the most prestigious competitions in the country. Their 2012 Fait Accompli Red Blend earned a 92-point "Editors' Choice" rating from Wine Enthusiast, a testament to the quality of their flagship wine.
Their commitment to reviving classic styles has also been recognized. The winery has received Double Gold and Best of Class awards from the Sunset International Wine Competition, with judges calling one of their aged red blends "Magnificent and mature. Leather, earthy character." This level of praise highlights their skill with both Bordeaux-style reds and unique creations inspired by Madeira styles.
Notable awards include:
Sunset International Wine Competition: Multiple Gold and Double Gold medals, with one wine scoring 97 points.
Wine Enthusiast: A 90-point "Editors' Choice" rating for their 2006 Über Rhenish Dry Riesling, showcasing their versatility.
The Final Sip
In summary, Westbrook Wine Farm is not just a hidden gem but a revival of a classic fortified wine that beautifully marries California's soul with rich tradition. The story behind "Malmsey Dearest" offers a unique glimpse into the artistry of winemaking, influenced by the legacies of European wines while remaining rooted in the distinctive terroir of California. Whether you're exploring the scenic Madera Wine Trail or enjoying a guided tasting experience, Westbrook provides an unforgettable journey through flavor and history. Don't miss out on the chance to taste this exceptional wine for yourself. Visit the winery or order online to bring the experience home!
Why Malmsey Matters Today
In a wine world often focused on trends and turnover, Malmsey reminds us that time is a vital ingredient. Whether it’s the centuries that shaped the tradition, or the decade that Malmsey Dearest spent slowly evolving in oak, this wine teaches patience, reverence, and the value of legacy.
Westbrook Wine Farm has managed something rare: they’ve honored the past without imitating it. In doing so, they’ve created a wine that is at once historic, heartfelt, and wholly their own.
So, if you ever find yourself in the Sierra foothills of Madera County, don’t leave without tasting a glass of Malmsey Dearest. It may just change your definition of sweet.
You can visit the Westbrook Wine Farm tasting room, located near Yosemite National Park, by securing a confirmed appointment. This ensures personal experience. For purchasing wines, it is best to inquire directly by phone or email about their current availability and if you can order online.
About the Author: John Krause is a wine enthusiast and the founder of the website California Corks
